Purple Velvet Cocktail Dress

I had just over 1m of purple velvet left over from my Vintage Not-So-Fancy ball gown from a few months ago and decided it was time to put it to use. Originally, I'd planned to just do a pencil skirt, which I made using a vintage pattern I'd found in a charity shop a while back, New Look 6158.


Vogue 6158 vintage pattern for pencil skirt, trousers / pants and waistcoat



The skirt needed a bit of taking in at the sides, but other than that there wasn't much to report in the construction process. Forgive the terrible photo - my room does not get great light, but you get the general idea.





Once it was completely finished, I decided that actually, I did have enough leftover fabric to make a bodice, and I'd be more likely to wear the dress than a skirt. Which was slightly annoying timing as I'd spent a fair while on getting the waistband and zip just right, and now they needed to be unpicked...but never mind.



I then played around with my fabric scraps, trying to get a general concept of how I wanted the bodice.



Purple velvet draped for pleated asymmetric cocktail dress sewing tutorial



I was too scared to cut anything out, in case I ruined it irreparably, so my finished drape product requires a little imagination to see how that could become a dress. It did give me sufficient inspiration to work off though, and after a bit of sketching, this was my finished design:



Sketch for purple velvet draped pleated cocktail dress



As you can see in the draped version, I had originally liked the idea of an over the shoulder sash type thing, but I thought that might over-complicate it. So the final design was to have sweetheart neckline, pleated cummerbund style belt wrapping around 3/4 of the waist, with one half of the bodice being pleated and the other half being simpler, with a dart making way for a drape that continues below the belt.



I made up the lining of the bodice first, using leftover purple satin lining and a self drafted pattern that was used for a project yet to be written up, and attached plastic boning to the seams.



Boned lining for velvet draped cocktail dress sewing tutorial



Then I started round 2 of draping - now I knew where I wanted the design lines to go, it was time to work out all the pleats etc.



Fabric draping for velvet draped cocktail dress drapery patternmaking dressmaking tutorial

Pleating for velvet draped cocktail dress drapery sewing tutorial patternmaking


That done, I sewed the dart, measured out the pleats precisely and tacked them down, then sewed all the bodice together. I forgot to mention, the back was just plain, so cut in the same style as the lining back. I attached the outer to the lining, then attached the bodice to the skirt, skipping out the draped section, which was then hand sewn into place over-top afterwards.



Pleated belt for self-drafted velvet draped cocktail dress sewing tutorial


Then I pinned the belt in place, stretching it slightly as I went, so that it wouldn't end up making the waist look bigger. I blind stitched this on by hand, attached the zip, and boom, I had a new dress! Photos to come soon :)

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