Satin Skirt & Waistcoat Combo

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Self drafted sewing pattern vintage retro crossover circle skirt and underbust waistcoat corset in neo-victorian 1950's style

As promised, here's the skirt that featured in my last blog post , as well as the waistcoat I made to go with it!

Sewing pattern vintage retro crossover circle skirt and underbust waistcoat corset in neo-victorian 1950's style DIY fashion

The whole idea behind this look was originally meant to be 1950s, with a big circle skirt and form-fitting waistcoat meant to replace the highly structured bodices of the time. It did kind of end up looking a bit more neo-victorian gothic, possibly in part due to the colour/fabric choice, but also I guess because an underbust waistcoat probably more easily lends itself to that era than to mid-century style. But I love a bit of Victorian-inspired fashion (and I guess, 1950's fashion is technically Victorian-inspired fashion) so that doesn't really bother me.

Self drafted sewing pattern vintage retro crossover circle skirt and underbust waistcoat corset in neo-victorian 1950's style DIY fashion

Both the waistcoat and the skirt were self-drafted, and though I'm really pleased with the two pieces, there are tweaks I'd like to make to both patterns if I were ever to use them again. The skirt is your basic circle skirt, but with a crossover pleat detail at the front. I think this looks really effective when the skirt's all poofed out, but there is a slight kink at the top of the pleat, towards the waistband, that is not meant to be there, and this does look odd from certain angles. I'm hoping this will be quite a simple fix on the pattern, as this is definitely something I'd consider remaking.

Self drafted sewing pattern vintage retro crossover circle skirt and underbust waistcoat corset in neo-victorian 1950's style DIY fashion

As for the waistcoat, I'm genuinely really pleased with it. I've never made this kind thing before (though I have made an 18th century inspired waistcoat if you're interested...), and as it's an underbust style, it was quite complicated to make sure everything was in the right position, and I think I managed to achieve that. The issue for me, is that although it is a waistcoat, it ends up performing a similar role to a bodice or corset, and as such you expect there to be a bit of hourglass waist definition that this fails to provide. So I think for this, I'd take in the side seams a little more, and potentially add in a couple of boning channels around the side and front to help give that effect.

Self drafted sewing pattern vintage retro crossover circle skirt and underbust waistcoat corset in neo-victorian 1950's style DIY fashion

But mandatory nit-picking aside, I am really happy with these two pieces. I've already worn the skirt enough times for me to feel like it was worth the time invested in it, and though the waistcoat isn't going to be something I reach for regularly, I'm looking forward to creating some awesome gothic outfits with it!

Self drafted sewing pattern vintage retro crossover circle skirt and underbust waistcoat corset in neo-victorian 1950's style DIY fashion

(Worn with my Drape Drape pleated top)

Self drafted sewing pattern vintage retro crossover circle skirt and underbust waistcoat corset in neo-victorian 1950's style DIY fashion

Well that's it for now. Let me know what you think and see you again next time!

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